• 26Sep

    Wouldn’t you like to explore your environment through a microscope? I have wanted to this for a while and been intrigued by the world of Super Macro Photography for over a year now.

    Super macro magnifies subjects and enables you to see the details of the eye of an insect or the texture of a hundred dollar bill or each pollen stuck to a bee’s leg.

    It is surprisingly easy to do – all you need is  (1) a camera (duh!), (2) two lenses and (3) a coupler attaching the two lenses face to face.

    The two lenses should be a combination of a wide angle lens and a longer focal length lens attached face to face.    I used a 105 mm  lens attached directly to the camera and a fifty at the outer end attached in reverse.  The lens directly on the camera (the 105) is in the regular position on the camera and the fifty is attached via a ‘reversal coupler’ facing the camera. The coupler allows me to screw on the fifty like it is a filter.

    Here is a link the coupler that I used (a male 52mm-52mm) – it attaches on the filter end of the fifty. I also had to use a step down ring to fit the thread on the 52mm coupler to my 105 at 62 mm (see this one here). That one attaches to the male coupler and to the filter end of the 105. Although not necessary – I also put an adaptor on the ‘reverse’ end of the fifty so I could put a protective filter on it because I felt is was exposed to the elements.  I got a Nikon BR-3 to allow for that (see link here). After attaching lenses, rings , and filters – make sure that the lens closest to the camera is set to manual focus (the 105 in my case) and the aperture on the outer lens (in my case the fifty) is wide  open – i.e., the dial is set to  (f/1.4 to f/2.8) to maximize the amount of light entering the lens while avoiding vignetting (so f/22 would be too small of a aperture – and surely would create a heavy vignette). … the focusing was strange, you have to be very close to the subject (just an inch or so) and  the DOF was super thin.  I found Nikon’s Live View handy for this.   I also used a tripod since again – the DOF was so thin – and I wanted to avoid camera shake. You may want to use a flash to allow more light and freezing any movements – I used an off-camera speed light to avoid sharp shadows.

    Summary of  Equipment (as attached from  the camera and outwards)
    • 1 dSLR (e.g., D300)
    • 1 long lens (e.g., 105 mm lens)
    • 1 step down ring (if needed)
    • 1 coupler (52-52 mm  male filter)
    • 1 ‘wide or normal’  lens (I used the 50mm f/1.4D)
    • 1 (optional) lens protection kit of outer lens (BK-3) with 52 mm UV filter.

    My  complete setup:

    From left to right:  A D300, a long lens (105mm for my setup), a step down ring (from 62mm to 52mm), a 52mm-52mm coupler ring, a reversed ‘wider’  lens – I used the 50 mm, and then finally the optional kit , consisting of  an adaptor, Nikon’s BR-3, allowing my to attach a filter on the far end of the fifty and a  52mm UV filter.

    Blogs and web pages that helped me get started:
  • 14Feb

    One factor that is important when picking a camera is its auto-focus (AF) performance. Cameras differ on both accuracy and responsiveness (or acquisition) of focus and also tracking or keeping a subject in focus while the subject is moving. Accuracy means that the camera thinks it is in focus but it isn’t really (you end up with out of focus images even if the camera told you that it was in focus). Responsiveness is the lag between being out-of focus to being in-focus.

    It is a challenge to assess a cameras performance as it depends on so many factors such as power from a driving processor or battery, available light and particular lens.  Does the camera have a processor, or two? Does the camera perform in dim light and how does it perform in bright light?  How can you separate the cameras native autofocus capability from that of the capability of the lens? But perhaps lens choice is irrelevant to separate, because you may choose a camera because of its lens anyway – and perhaps one should assess autofocus with  the fastest  lens available.

    I looked at two sites to get insight on autofocus performance of Nikon, Canon and Sony cameras – both resources use scientific rigor when assessing performance  - Popular Photography and Imaging resource and found  conflicting results.

    Popular Photography below (higher better performance) favors the autofocusing systems of the D3X and Sony A900 while imaging resource favors the Canon.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Data Source: [D300] [D700] [D3][D3x] [A900] [5DII]

    Popular photography.. more to come.

     

     

    Based on Imaging Resource Data:

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Note that the Imaging Resource data above shows over a 2X difference between the D3 and D700 (D300) for the “Shutterlag, Full AF” numbers while the “pre-focus and shutter” numbers are pretty close between the cameras. We noticed that they use two difference lenses while testing between the D3 and D300/D700, namely the fast focusing 24-70 f/2.8 on the D3 and D3x but the slower focusing lens, the Sigma 70 f/2.8 EX on the D300 and D700. We asked the Imaging resource researchers about this issue but they believe that lens choice should not make a significant difference as they test iteratively or multiple times- so the lens is already in focus in the final measurement. In this manner they claim that they isolate the cameras performance the lens performance, i.e., they measuring the camera’s ability to ‘determine’ focus instead of the lens’ autofocus performance.

    Personally, I challenge that assumption, for two reasons – first the data from popular photography seem to differ and second removing possible variables (such as lens choice and power) in experiments is more fair and it is only one way to eliminate lens choice as a question and that is to not use different lenses.

    The focus engines between cameras (the D3 and D700) are the same, Nikon’s Multi-CAM3500FX system. The real difference is that the D3 has two processors giving it more ‘power’ while the D300 and D700 have only one. So the question is whether the D3 performs true parallel processing or not. Leveling the field between the cameras by adding more power to the D300/D700 or add battery grip with AA.

    I offered imaging resource my equipment for retesting (my camera, lens and battery grip) for further testing – they responding by saying they would get back to me but so far I have not heard an additional response. Possible because of they are busy with the upcoming PMAi.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Review Site Data:

    http://www.popphoto.com/

    http://www.imaging-resource.com/

    http://www.dxomark.com/

    Tags: , , , , ,
  • 24Dec

    After over a week of fun with a rented 5DII (review upcoming), I played with my almost one year ‘old’ D300.

    Today, I played with the “Live View” mode and setting the white balance. Live view is a great resource to get direct visual feedback on different white balance settings as you can see the scenery change on the LCD in real time.

    Live view is really easy to  use – just turn on live view then while viewing the scenery on the LCD you change the camera settings and get direct feedback of the effect of changing camera on the camera LCD screen/monitor.

    (1) Turn on live view (use the camera dial under the ISO/QUAL/WB buttons – same dial where you set shooting mode – single/remote timers and set it to Live View (Lv).

    (2) Push the shutter release button down once – now live view is activated.

    (3) Look at the LCD screen and compose the image or change setting such as WB and

    (4) push the shutter again and hold the shutter to take the shot.

     

    Turn on Live View by moving this dial to Lv

    Turn on Live View by moving this dial to "Lv"

     

     

    Try it!